There was no obvious analogy to draw from this show. Yes, something totally new! OK, well that’s an exaggeration. The parts of Nicolas Ghesquière’s latest Balenciaga(handbags) sum weren’t really new at all. Articulated leather biker trousers, hooded vests and windows to colourful, layered sheers all picked up on recent trends. Even the shots of canary, pea and hi-vis orange on an otherwise black-and-grey background didn’t blaze any trails.
And yet, as a whole, the collection was something else — different from the florals, stronger than the minimalists and totally unreliant on shoulder pads. The models walked fast, confident in Ghesquière’s strength of vision (and surprisingly undeterred by conical-heeled boots that stood wide around the calves). This designer doesn’t need a signature; his success is knowing what looks fashionable before anyone fashionable Balenciaga handbag has got out of bed.
So what made the show unique? Perhaps it was turning the seasons on their head. Heavy, woven wintery fabrics sewn into leather are not what you expect come June. Bold, graphic simplicity also made a difference, with bare arms dominating and creating a strong, lean rectangular form down the centre of the body.
Ghesquière’s immense craftsmanship was memorable too. The flippy skirts, essentially short kilts, were formed out of tiny, 3-D triangular repeats that looked like wearable sea urchins. Aha, an analogy — but one that does little to help convey the collection’s superiority above others that churn out derisory, nostalgic repetitions.replica Balenciaga handbags